Denovo Audio 1.0cuft Subwoofer Flat Pack

This 1.0 cubic foot Denovo Audio subwoofer flat pack is made from a highly refined CARB 2 compliant MDF, which is much nicer than the panels sold in most home improvement stores. It's a heavier weight, clean cutting material that makes it perfect for subwoofer cabinets. It gives you more rigid panels and the extra weight assures that the enclosure is less likely to 'walk' around on the floor when the subwoofer is playing at high volumes. It's double thick front baffle gives you a full 1.5" total thickness for an extremely solid build.

Every panel is cut with an automated CNC router so that the pieces fit together perfectly in rabbet joints and dado grooves. Not only does this make assembly much easier and more accurate, but also gives you a stronger enclosure because there's more surface area for the glue to bond to.

This cabinet gives you a net internal volume around 1.0cuft after subtracting the woofer and braces.  It was cut for the Dayton 10" RS265 subwoofer or other woofers with the same diameter. The well thought out interlocking matrix style bracing system allows you to assemble the entire cabinet quickly and easily with no need for screws or nails. 

Product Highlights:

• CNC cut for incredible accuracy
• Made from Carb 2 Compliant highly refined MDF
• Rabbet joints and dado grooves help align panels for easy assembly
• Full width and height interlocking brace design for extra strength
• 1.5" thick front panel
• Can be used as a downfiring subwoofer by installing legs on the front panel

Note: I did not have the CNC company cut holes for terminals because everyone likes using something different. Terminals, binding posts, and/or speaker spikes can be shipped for free if you order them at the same time you order this flat pack.

Recommended Tools:

• Clamps that open as big as the longest side of the flat pack.
• A mallet (or a small piece of wood and hammer) to lightly tap pieces into place if needed.
• Quality wood glue like Titebond. Some people use PL adhesive.
• Sandpaper or sanding block for smaller cabinets, but a power sander speeds things up a lot.
• Some prefer to use brad nailers for quick assembly, but clamps are just fine with no need for nails or screws.

Assembly Notes:

This is an easy cabinet to assemble and can be done a few different ways.  Believe it or not the panels go together so good that some people have assembled these just using masking tape to hold the panels together.  That's actually what they do in cabinet shops as well.  My directions probably make it sound a bit harder than it actually is, but once you have the panels laid out, you'll see how easy it can be done.  My directions assume you're using a wood glue like TiteBond, Elmers wood glue, or something similar.

Sit the back panel up on something to keep it a few inches off your work bench.  This allows the head of your clamps to fit under the panel so you can clamp the other pieces to it much easier.  Glue the braces in first and add a little glue where they interlock. While clamping them down, make sure they stay between the rabbet joints cut around the rear panel and wipe away any glue that squishes into those grooves so the other panels will still lay in okay.  After about 30 minutes, remove your clamps.  

Next you want to install the top and bottom pieces.  These also fit perfectly between the rabbet joints just like your braces did. Make sure you put glue where they touch the bracing.

After you have the top and bottom on, I prefer to install just *one* side panel, then I will glue on the inner baffle next.  I've seen people install both side panels but that will be harder to apply glue and push the inner baffle into the cabinet.  So I just do one side panel, then install the inner baffle making sure you have glue every place two pieces of wood meet.  Let that dry pretty good.  

Without adding glue, fit the remaining side panel in place.  Depending on how hard you clamped things down earlier, this could need to be tapped into place with a mallet, or a small block of wood and hammer.  Make note of where you need to apply the wood glue, remove the side panel, apply the wood glue where needed, then tap the panel back into place and clamp it down.

Last piece is the outer baffle.  Just put a bead of glue around the edges, then around the woofer cutout, then just drizzle it around the rest of the areas.  Lay the baffle on.  It will slide around a little bit, but don't worry.  Lightly tighten your clamps down while working your way around the box shifting the baffle into position.  If you have a small clamp, you can use it inside the woofer cutout to clamp the inner baffle to the outer baffle.  

Tips:

• Dry fit all pieces together first so you can see how the cabinet is suppose to assemble.
• Don't rush your build. Glue one or two panels at a time to make assembly accurate and easier.
• Use a quality wood glue and put a bead of it anywhere two panels touch.
• Clamp each panel for at least 30 minutes, then move to the next step. (depends on adhesive used)
• Don't over-clamp your panels.  Tighten your clamps enough to hold the panel in place.
• If you're going to add any filler to the seams, sand the edges down flush before adding filler.
• Predrill your woofer screw holes with a 7/64" or 1/8" drill bit.
• Protect your woofer when installing screws. You don't want the screw driver to slip and puncture the woofer!