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This 2.0 cubic foot Denovo Audio subwoofer flat pack is made from a highly refined CARB 2 compliant MDF, which is much nicer than the panels sold in most home improvement stores. It's a heavier weight, clean cutting material that makes it perfect for subwoofer cabinets. It gives you more rigid panels and the extra weight assures that the enclosure is less likely to 'walk' around on the floor when the subwoofer is playing at high volumes. It's double thick front baffle gives you a full 1.5" total thickness for an extremely solid build.
Every panel is cut with an automated CNC router so that the pieces fit together perfectly in rabbet joints and dado grooves. Not only does this make assembly much easier and more accurate, but also gives you a stronger enclosure because there's more surface area for the glue to bond to.
This cabinet gives you a net internal volume around 2.1cuft after subtracting the woofer and braces. It was cut for the 12" Dayton RSS315 or any other woofer with the same dimensions. The well thought out interlocking matrix style bracing system allows you to assemble the entire cabinet quickly and easily with no need for screws or nails.
Product Highlights:
- CNC cut for incredible accuracy
- Made from Carb 2 Compliant highly refined MDF
- Rabbet joints and dado grooves help align panels for easy assembly
- Full width and height interlocking brace design for extra strength
- 1.5" thick front panel
- Can be used as a downfiring subwoofer by installing legs on the front panel
Note: I did not have the CNC company cut holes for terminals because everyone likes using something different. Terminals, binding posts, and/or speaker spikes can be shipped for free if you order them at the same time you order this flat pack.
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Extremely smooth assembly review by Charles on 1/19/2019I got this flatpack set to go with a Ultimax 12". It was ridiculously easy to put together just with a few 24" clamps. I used 6mm T-nuts and hex cap bolts for the driver, and it is incredibly solid. The assembly is extremely easy especially because you only have to square up one direction of the first two braces, and then everything just naturally lines up nice and square against them.
One slight variation I did compared to the instructions was I lined up the two front baffles initially with a caliper, clamped them, and drove two wood screws (that wouldn't poke out the front of course). This let me carefully drill through the bolt holes through both baffles at once on my drill press, and then take them apart. When I was doing the glue of the final front baffle, I threaded the screws partway through from the inside so they poked up 1/4" and helped line things up and prevent it from sliding around.
I'd also recommend if you're going to do spikes or feet to put t-nuts on the bottom piece before you glue it in place, since it's much easier to do it beforehand instead of afterwards like I did. -
DIYSQ is a boon to the DIY community review by Kemist1117 on 2/18/2018
(Posted on 2/16/15 from the old site)
Built this for a Rythmik 12. Enclosure was super easy to assemble and made the DIY process a breeze. Eric has gone out of his way every time I've placed an order and this website is a boon to the DIY community -
Perfect knockdown kits and packaging. review by Mike220 on 2/18/2018
(Posted on 11/21/13 from the old site)
I got my 2 sealed flat packs Friday and got one together right away and listened to it all weekend. Got the 2nd one done yesterday but haven't listened to it. The cabs were perfect and everything fit great. I almost don't need to do any prep work before painting them after winter! I'm very happy with my purchase and will recommend people to your site. The kits are packaged very well they are not going to get damaged during shipping by fault of diysoundgroup. A truck would have to be flipping down a mountain on fire to damage these and that's still debatable.
I never go out of my way to review a product but these to cabs made the sub builds very easy, quick and painless. Plus very little mess. So thanks again for your product/help! -
Excellent quality, excellent value review by Dan K on 2/18/2018
(Posted on 4/11/13 from the old site)
I ordered two of the 2 cubic/ft subwoofer flat packs. These are very high quality. Packaging was great and the pieces fit together exactly. As a beginner with no woodworking skills, this gave me the opportunity to build my own subs. On top of everything else, Erich provides great customer service and his site provides beginners like me with box sizes matched with driver and amp recommendations. Thanks for doing this Erich! -
Awesome review by SamW on 2/18/2018
(Posted on 3/14/13 from the old site)
I built one of these and put a TC Sounds Epic 12" subwoofer in it. They don't carry baffles for that woofer normally, but they went out of their way to cut one specially for me. Building the box is extremely easy. :)
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| General Information |
| Brand: | Denovo Audio Inc. |
| Model: | 2.0-Sub-FP |
| Material: | Highly Refined Carb 2 MDF |
| Width: | 16 inches |
| Height: | 19 inches |
| Depth: | 17.75 inches |
| Gross Volume: | 2.9 cubic feet |
| Net Volume (approx): | 2.1 cubic feet |
| Outer Cutout: | 12.4" |
| Inner Cutout | 11.2" |
| Weight: | 41lbs |
Recommended Tools:
- Clamps that open as big as the longest side of the flat pack.
- A mallet (or a small piece of wood and hammer) to lightly tap pieces into place if needed.
- Quality wood glue like Titebond. Some people use PL adhesive.
- Sandpaper or sanding block for smaller cabinets, but a power sander speeds things up a lot.
- Some prefer to use brad nailers for quick assembly, but clamps are just fine with no need for nails or screws.
Assembly Notes:
This is an easy cabinet to assemble and can be done a few different ways. Believe it or not the panels go together so good that some people have assembled these just using masking tape to hold the panels together. That's actually what they do in cabinet shops as well. My directions probably make it sound a bit harder than it actually is, but once you have the panels laid out, you'll see how easy it can be done. My directions assume you're using a wood glue like TiteBond, Elmers wood glue, or something similar.
Sit the back panel up on something to keep it a few inches off your work bench. This allows the head of your clamps to fit under the panel so you can clamp the other pieces to it much easier. Glue the braces in first and add a little glue where they interlock. While clamping them down, make sure they stay between the rabbet joints cut around the rear panel and wipe away any glue that squishes into those grooves so the other panels will still lay in okay. After about 30 minutes, remove your clamps.
Next you want to install the top and bottom pieces. These also fit perfectly between the rabbet joints just like your braces did. Make sure you put glue where they touch the bracing.
After you have the top and bottom on, I prefer to install just *one* side panel, then I will glue on the inner baffle next. I've seen people install both side panels but that will be harder to apply glue and push the inner baffle into the cabinet. So I just do one side panel, then install the inner baffle making sure you have glue every place two pieces of wood meet. Let that dry pretty good.
Without adding glue, fit the remaining side panel in place. Depending on how hard you clamped things down earlier, this could need to be tapped into place with a mallet, or a small block of wood and hammer. Make note of where you need to apply the wood glue, remove the side panel, apply the wood glue where needed, then tap the panel back into place and clamp it down.
Last piece is the outer baffle. Just put a bead of glue around the edges, then around the woofer cutout, then just drizzle it around the rest of the areas. Lay the baffle on. It will slide around a little bit, but don't worry. Lightly tighten your clamps down while working your way around the box shifting the baffle into position. If you have a small clamp, you can use it inside the woofer cutout to clamp the inner baffle to the outer baffle.
Tips:
- Dry fit all pieces together first so you can see how the cabinet is suppose to assemble.
- Don't rush your build. Glue one or two panels at a time to make assembly accurate and easier.
- Use a quality wood glue and put a bead of it anywhere two panels touch.
- Clamp each panel for at least 30 minutes, then move to the next step. (depends on adhesive used)
- Don't over-clamp your panels. Tighten your clamps enough to hold the panel in place.
- If you're going to add any filler to the seams, sand the edges down flush before adding filler.
- Predrill your woofer screw holes with a 7/64" or 1/8" drill bit.
- Protect your woofer when installing screws. You don't want the screw driver to slip and puncture the woofer!
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