The small size of the Speedster is deceiving. Thanks to the Tang Band woofer and Fountek ribbon tweeter you'll get that high end sound along with good bass response from a very small speaker. They also make great computer or bedroom speakers.
From the speaker designer: These speakers are like those roadsters, spyders, speedsters, and barchettas. They are meant to be small, cool, and fun to listen to. They're for private listening, and enjoying the music, and leaving your cares someplace else, miles away. They are not the cheapest speakers on the block. but you get what you pay for: a well-engineered woofer with a massive underhung motor, and a true ribbon tweeter. The result is a speaker that provides plenty of detail and dynamics, but in a very small cabinet. Depending on how you finish them, they can disappear into the decor of a room, or be showcased like the little luxury item they are.
- Great bass response for a speaker this size.
- Ribbon tweeter for dynamic high frequency response.
- High quality name brand components.
- Optional flat pack makes for an easy to assemble kit.
Minimum order is 2 speakers: If you ordered one in the past and need one for a center, please contact me. Kits are sold as full kits, sorry no substitutions or subtractions. Don't forget binding posts, terminal cups, or speaker spikes if you need them because they can be shipped for free with any kit or flat pack purchase.
Shipping Note: Most speaker kits currently ship for free, but flat packs normally do not. We try to get your order packaged and shipped in 5-8 days depending on how many orders have come in. Please read the 'Frequently Asked Questions' section for more information.
Price Break Down:
1 - 4" Tang Band W4-1720 woofer: $51.20
1 - Fountek NeoCD1.0: $52.80
1 - Denovo CNC cut front baffle: $81 - Set of crossover parts: $31.811 - Speaker port: $2.571 - Set of screws and gaskets: no charge
Packaging Material: $2.00
Paypal Fee: $4.39
Retail Cost: $152.77
Discount Cost: $146.38 with free shipping
Please read the 'About Us' section for more information on pricing structure and quality parts used.
Specific Speedster Assembly Notes:
It is recommended that you lightly fill the speaker cabinet with polyfill without blocking the port. Before gluing the telescopic port together, check to see if it's wide end will fit through the cutout okay. Sometimes the plastic can be just a little bigger from the manufacturer. It will be tight no matter what, but as long as you can fit both sides of the telescopic section of the port through the hole, then you can glue it at 6" and install it later. If the plastic port seems a bit too big, you can either sand it a little bit or attach the outer portion of the port to the box and then glue the telescopic portion inside so that the total length of the port is about 4.5" long. It doesn't have to be 100% perfect, just close.
The designers directions and crossover schematic are located here.
Recommended Tools and Supplies:
- Quality wood glue like TiteBond.
- At least 2 clamps 6" wide or bigger. You can use masking tape to hold the panels together if needed.
- Soldering Iron and solder unless there is an optional assembled crossover for your kit.
- Wire cutters
- Drill to predrill all screw holes.
- Sanding block or power sander.
- About 2' of speaker wire to connect your woofers and tweeter to the crossover board.
- VERY IMPORTANT - Inductors are the parts that look like small rolls of copper wire. Notice that the two ends of wire are silver and have been 'tinned' with solder. Those are the parts of the inductor that you should be soldering to, so don't cut it off to get to the copper colored portion. Inductors should not be installed directly next to each other on your board.
- None of the crossover parts have a positive or negative side so it doesn't matter which way they are facing when you assemble your crossover. 16-18 gauge wire is thick enough to use for your crossover or to go from your crossover board to the woofer or tweeter.
- Your crossover can be assembled on a thin piece of MDF or pegboard if the kit doesn't come with a circuit board.
- It doesn't matter where you put the crossover inside your speaker. You could mount it on the outside if you wanted to.
- Normally you wire red wires to positive and black wires to negative. If (and only if) your crossover schemtaic has a note saying 'Inverted Polarity', that means you need to connect the negative from the crossover to the positive on the tweeter and positive from the crossover to the negative on the tweeter. This is only done on some tweeters, not woofers.
- Click Here for a good assembly video by Matt Grant.
Screws and Gaskets:
- Predrill all screw holes with a bit that's slightly smaller than your screws to prevent the wood from splitting. Most screws are #8 panhead and you can use a 7/64" or 1/8" drill bit. Overnight Sensations use a #6 panhead so you can use a 3/32" bit.
- VERY IMPORTANT: Protect your woofer or tweeter when installing screws because you don't want the screwdriver to slip and puncture one of your components....that will ruin your day! Consider putting your free hand next to the screw to cover up the edge of the woofer or tweeter.
- If your kit comes with gasket tape, it should be applied to the back of the waveguide. Peel the paper off the back to expose the sticky side and slowly work it around the perimeter on the back side of the part. Some woofers will need gasket tape as well.
Stuffing or Lining the Speaker Cabinet:
- If your speaker or subwoofer is a sealed cabinet, most designers recommend that you lightly fill the inside with polyfill (pillow stuffing). If you don't have polyfill, then you can line the walls with 1" - 1.5" thick light weight open cell foam (like acoustic foam) or fiberglass insulation. You can also use 2-3" recyled denim insulation that can be bought at Home Depot.
- It's okay to cover up your crossover with the polyfill, insulation, or foam.
- If you're using a ported enclosure you should lightly fill the cabinet with polyfill and be sure not to block the ports. If you do not have polyfill then line the walls with 1" - 1.5" thick open cell foam (like acoustic foam), 2" - 3" of denim insulation, or 2" - 3" thick poly batting.
- Some of the speaker designers like to lines the walls of their ported enclosures with a 1" - 1.5" acoustic foam, and then lightly fill the remainder of the cabinet with polyfill. If this is a required method, it will be listed at the top of the page under 'Assembly Notes'.
Links to Build Threads for this Speaker:
Frequently Asked Questions:
* Does this kit come with a circuit board to assemble the crossover on? Answer: No, most people assemble them on a small thin piece of wood.